What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger

So that’s it. My foot’s pretty fucked. Out of the water for 8 weeks, and then a week or two to get my groove back. Slap bang in the middle of the Pro Junior series. Well, as the headline reads, ‘what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger’ so there is something to learn from all of this.

Firstly I just want to say well done to Shaun. He kicked it at the Quik Pro Junior, and so he should have. Great surfing, lame waves. I heard it was a good event and I was bummed I couldn’t be there.

Hobbling along on crutches.

So all being well, I will be back in the water in July. Just hope we will have some winter swells left by then so I can get a couple at Supers. Going to miss the Pro Juniors, going to miss the Xcel, and a bunch of other events.

When I get bummed about it, I remember what happened to Mick Fanning. Tore the bum muscle off the bone, was predicted that he would struggle to walk, let alone surf, and he turned the whole thing around to a world title, and then followed it up with another. So there’s hope.

Injured.

It’s one of the risks we run whenever we go surf – a bad wipeout that results in an injury. It doesn’t happen that often, but when it does it is always a bitter pill to swallow. I caught a few bombs at New Pier, and after a few I lucked onto this one good little runner. I went for a nice little off-the-top on this new board that has been going like a dream, and I felt pretty confident. Then the bottom dropped out of the wave, I fell, and my foot crunched under me.

So I am out of the water for a few days, maybe weeks. I’m out for the Quiksilver Pro Junior, I’m out for a while. One of those things. It is a bummer but I am not going to get too disconsolate about it and will just use this opportunity to get ready for the next time I am in the water.

Crutches, swelling, the works.