It’s one of the risks we run whenever we go surf – a bad wipeout that results in an injury. It doesn’t happen that often, but when it does it is always a bitter pill to swallow. I caught a few bombs at New Pier, and after a few I lucked onto this one good little runner. I went for a nice little off-the-top on this new board that has been going like a dream, and I felt pretty confident. Then the bottom dropped out of the wave, I fell, and my foot crunched under me.
So I am out of the water for a few days, maybe weeks. I’m out for the Quiksilver Pro Junior, I’m out for a while. One of those things. It is a bummer but I am not going to get too disconsolate about it and will just use this opportunity to get ready for the next time I am in the water.
Crutches, swelling, the works.
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